Spain 2004
When we started planning this vacation we had wanted to spend the second week
on the south coast of France - a double dose of French. We never managed to find
a place that would let us have the week there on one side or the other of a week
in Switzerland so we eventually gave up. We next tried Italy but we were doing
no better. Finally on to Spain and we had immediate success. Not that Spain was
a last chance or anything, but it hadn't really occurred to us before. However,
the prospect of too much sand, fish, wine and sun seemed perfect after a week in
the mountains and we were looking forward to it.
We made all our flights OK, but it was a long day for a couple of
reasons: we schlepped the baggage all over the Barcelona airport, the car
wasn't there when we arrived in Almería, and the
directions to the resort were ... confusing. Fortunately Glen's cell phone
worked in Spain so we could call for the car, and call the resort to get
directions.
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| Our car was a little Renault Picasso, a diesel, with a manual
transmission and air conditioning.
The resort was a collection of pretty little white buildings with 2 or 4
units in each. The grounds were very well kept with flowers growing
everywhere.
The unit we had was pretty nice but we only had 2 single beds. The
windows had strong bars across them all with sturdy locking shutters inside
for security,
but no screens. It was a challenge to find the right combination of open or
closed, curtained or not, for the days and the nights.
And of course there were mosquitos (a good Spanish word). They weren't
too bad for the first few days, but by the end of the week we were starting
to hate them. |
| The resort was just outside the town of Garrucha, a fishing
port, about an hour east of Almería. Here we see the reception and
clubhouse, the local store (mercado) and pub, the pool and the restaurant. The
restaurant had a very friendly staff with excellent English (and several
other languages), and a 3 terminal internet café so Glen could check email!
The restaurant said it specialized in Paella, but we had better.
The Club is just off the beach, a wide swath of sand and groundcover
leading to some whicker umbrellas and crashing surf. I tried to go swimming
one day but the undertow was just too strong and I couldn't get a firm
footing on the shifting sand.
Just back from the beach is a lagoon (laguna), probably the root of the
name of the place. We had expected to find wading birds in there but never
saw any, wading or flying nearby. |
| On our first full day (Sunday) we were ready to find Spain. We headed for Mojacar
where there was a Festival of the Moors and Christians going on.
We stopped at the Market - a daily traveling show that moves from town to
town - and at the fuente (fountain) where the
public can get free fresh spring water. Then we walked up the hill into the
town where the dancing was going on. |
| Also at the festival was a man with a dozen or so wild birds. We missed the
hunting demonstration with the birds, but were content just to get close to
some of these marvelous creatures. Several of these looked to us like
birds that were on the endangered species list - the barn owl and maybe some
falcons. |
| We had a spot of lunch at a great little restaurant - if you can call a bottle
of great wine, a full meal and 2 hours sitting in the shade a "spot" of
lunch. It seemed fantastic to us, but we soon started to think of this as a
normal Spanish luncheon.
Everywhere we went we tried the Gazpacho, looking for the best one. The
worst was just cold Campbell's tomato soup. The best was full of garlic,
thick with tomato and other veggies.
After lunch, some more wandering around town - white, white buildings,
explosions of flowers, vistas from the hill top, and even a friendly black
cat. Friendly, yes, but our Cat-illian was a little rusty. |
| We had to get down to the sea. We went for a bit of a drive along the coast
from Garrucha towards Carboneras. |
| On the next day, Monday, we went looking for pottery in one of the smaller
towns up the hillside called Nijar. The amazing thing about the pottery was
the intensity of the colours and glaze. If only we'd had a crate to pack up
and ship home... In the view from the hill top you can see "Las Plasticas"
in the distance - the white patches that cover the valley floor. These are
sheltered, watered crop land growing several harvests a year of all kinds of
vegetables, mostly for northern Europe.
After we left the town we drove further up into the hills,
thinking we might find a way over them and a short-cut to "Mini Hollywood"
where some "B" western movies have been filmed. We missed the
short-cut, but found fields of flowers and a few untended olive trees. |
| After we gave up on Mini Hollywood, we turned back to the
coast and went down
to Cabo de Gata, a nature preserve.
We didn't see much in the
way of animals, but the hardy plants growing along the coast were a surprise
in themselves.
Further along the coast we came to a lighthouse. The rocky coast made it
clear why the lighthouse was needed. |
| After the Cabo we started driving back towards Garrucha
along the coast and stopped in San Jose for a drink overlooking the beach.
Hey - a volleyball net, and it looks like it has been used! |
| On Tuesday we decided to explore Almería and the castle
there called Al Cazaba.
There is a broad central street running through the town called Rambla de
Belén, great for walking, with statues and fountains and plazas. |
| Walking up the hill from the town we headed for Al Cazaba.
We didn't pay quite enough attention to the map though, and we ended up on
the wrong hill!
Here you can see the old wall of the fortress running from the hill we
are on (where that statue is) over to the other hill which is where the
actual Al Cazaba is found. |
| The Al Cazaba is an old fortress, and inside the walls is an
incredible garden, with an incredible purple tree - we'd never seen anything
like that!
The fort clearly has a huge Moorish influence as shown by the shapes of
the walls and towers, but also by the extensive use of water in setting the
atmosphere of the place. |
| Wednesday was a relaxed day. We spent some time wandering
around in Garrucha, looking for the daily traveling market. We wandered
along the boardwalk and the harbour area. Found another volleyball net, but it didn't look used.
We had a great lunch at a little
restaurant along the beach called "La Pesquera". The waiter's English wasn't
that good - but better than our Spanish - and our Spanish phrase book didn't
have the "penknife" clams that we enjoyed. This was where we had
the best Paella on our trip. |
| It's about 2 1/2 hours drive from Garrucha to Grenada, along
some excellent highway with virtually no traffic. Along the way we could see
that we were getting into the mountains - see the snow-capped peaks? Once
we arrived in Grenada we headed straight for Al Hambra, high atop a hill
overlooking the city. We seem to have missed a lot of the tourist traffic
(early June) and we even managed to get parking!
Find out more about
Al Hambra.
The tour through the grounds starts with a garden and the Palacio of King
Carlos 5, built like an old Roman Colliseum. After that taste of the past we
were ready for the main event - the Royal Palace. |
| The Royal Palace of Al Hambra is made up of 3 parts: the
Mexuar, the Serallo and the Harem surrounding the Lion's Court. The water
which is such an essential element of the buildings came via an aqueduct
from a nearby river, diverted far upstream and channeled to flow to the
palace.
The incredible thing about the place is the carvings on the walls and
ceilings, so intricate and detailed and extensive. We need to get someone to
translate some of the Arabic script carved into the walls.
Water is used everywhere as an architectural element - pools, streams,
fountains. Pictures here show the Patio of the Myrtles with the myrtle
bushes lining the pool, and the Lion's Court with its fountain.
We were lucky that the place was not completely over-run with visitors.
Usually, one only had to wait a minute or two for a crowd to pass in order
to get a good picture.
There is a fascinating garden shown here which is based on Moorish design
on one side and Renaissance on the other.
As we leave the main part of the Palace there are buildings used by other
people who were high up in Grenada's society. One of these is called the
Ladies' Tower and has a beautiful pool in front of it. |
| After leaving the Palace and the Ladies' Tower there is a
large garden area that is part of the Palace grounds. |
|
From there the walk continues on to another garden called 'Generalife'
(general leefay) and a house that belonged to some general, I think.
The family that recently owned that house was no longer able to afford
the upkeep and they donated it to the people looking after Al Hambra on the
condition that they continue the upkeep of the house and gardens. |
| On Friday we again took it easy, starting with lunch along
the boardwalk in Garrucha.
Afterwards, we walked down to the Fish market. Since Garrucha is a
fishing port, the ships all return to harbour late in the afternoon with
their catch already cleaned and on ice in the hold of the ship. They sort
the fish by type and size and prepare flats of fish, about 2 feet by 1 1/2
feet in size.
The auctioneer runs the show. Flats of fish are brought in from the
ships, weighed, tagged and arranged for auction. There were normally 10 or
so buyers wandering around the flats, some talking on cell phones, trying to
get a good price for their market or restaurant.
We saw shrimp (various sizes), swordfish, mackerel, squid and bunch of
things that have interesting Spanish names! |
| Saturday morning arrived too soon and we had to check out of
the Pueblo Laguna and catch the flight back to Barcelona.
Once we got there we took a taxi to our
hotel right
in the heart of the old part of town (Bario Gottica). From there it was an
easy walk to everything we wanted to see.
We started with the Cathedral - unfortunately the outside was under
construction, perpetually under construction they say.
We carried on, wandering through old streets and plazas, making our way
over to Las Ramblas, a long connection of boulevard walking streets and
shopping areas ... time for a few souvenirs. |
|
For the evening we had arranged tickets for dinner and an "authentic"
Flamenco demonstration. Actually, it was very good, quite stirring in some
of the dances. Of course Glen wanted to see more of the guitar playing.
After dinner and the show we continued wandering through the town,
heading down to the port area where we heard some music that was put on as
part of the Festival del Mar. |
And then the next day it was all over. We checked out and headed
to the airport again. It was a long trip home - 22 hours door to door - but at
least it was in Business Class! We flew Barcelona to Munich to Montreal to
Toronto. It was all going pretty smoothly except for the transfer in Montreal
where some airport security workers were ... not working ... and as a result the
line-up to get through security was about 90 minutes long and we missed our
flight. No problem, we got home eventually, and all our luggage made it too, and
none of our precious souvenirs was damaged in transit. Success!!!
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