Spain 2004


When we started planning this vacation we had wanted to spend the second week on the south coast of France - a double dose of French. We never managed to find a place that would let us have the week there on one side or the other of a week in Switzerland so we eventually gave up. We next tried Italy but we were doing no better. Finally on to Spain and we had immediate success. Not that Spain was a last chance or anything, but it hadn't really occurred to us before. However, the prospect of too much sand, fish, wine and sun seemed perfect after a week in the mountains and we were looking forward to it.

We made all our flights OK, but it was a long day for a couple of reasons: we schlepped the baggage all over the Barcelona airport, the car wasn't there when we arrived in Almería, and the directions to the resort were ... confusing. Fortunately Glen's cell phone worked in Spain so we could call for the car, and call the resort to get directions.

Back to Main Page


                         
Our car was a little Renault Picasso, a diesel, with a manual transmission and air conditioning.

 

The resort was a collection of pretty little white buildings with 2 or 4 units in each. The grounds were very well kept with flowers growing everywhere.

 

The unit we had was pretty nice but we only had 2 single beds. The windows had strong bars across them all with sturdy locking shutters inside for security, but no screens. It was a challenge to find the right combination of open or closed, curtained or not, for the days and the nights.

 

And of course there were mosquitos (a good Spanish word). They weren't too bad for the first few days, but by the end of the week we were starting to hate them.

                              The resort was just outside the town of Garrucha, a fishing port, about an hour east of Almería.  Here we see the reception and clubhouse, the local store (mercado) and pub, the pool and the restaurant. The restaurant had a very friendly staff with excellent English (and several other languages), and a 3 terminal internet café so Glen could check email! The restaurant said it specialized in Paella, but we had better.

 

The Club is just off the beach, a wide swath of sand and groundcover leading to some whicker umbrellas and crashing surf. I tried to go swimming one day but the undertow was just too strong and I couldn't get a firm footing on the shifting sand.

 

Just back from the beach is a lagoon (laguna), probably the root of the name of the place. We had expected to find wading birds in there but never saw any, wading or flying nearby.

                      On our first full day (Sunday) we were ready to find Spain. We headed for Mojacar where there was a Festival of the Moors and Christians going on.

 

We stopped at the Market - a daily traveling show that moves from town to town - and at the fuente (fountain) where the public can get free fresh spring water.

 

Then we walked up the hill into the town where the dancing was going on.

                  Also at the festival was a man with a dozen or so wild birds. We missed the hunting demonstration with the birds, but were content just to get close to some of these marvelous creatures.

Several of these looked to us like birds that were on the endangered species list - the barn owl and maybe some falcons.

                          We had a spot of lunch at a great little restaurant - if you can call a bottle of great wine, a full meal and 2 hours sitting in the shade a "spot" of lunch. It seemed fantastic to us, but we soon started to think of this as a normal Spanish luncheon.

 

Everywhere we went we tried the Gazpacho, looking for the best one. The worst was just cold Campbell's tomato soup. The best was full of garlic, thick with tomato and other veggies.

 

After lunch, some more wandering around town - white, white buildings, explosions of flowers, vistas from the hill top, and even a friendly black cat. Friendly, yes, but our Cat-illian was a little rusty.

        We had to get down to the sea. We went for a bit of a drive along the coast from Garrucha towards Carboneras.
                        On the next day, Monday, we went looking for pottery in one of the smaller towns up the hillside called Nijar. The amazing thing about the pottery was the intensity of the colours and glaze. If only we'd had a crate to pack up and ship home...

In the view from the hill top you can see "Las Plasticas" in the distance - the white patches that cover the valley floor. These are sheltered, watered crop land growing several harvests a year of all kinds of vegetables, mostly for northern Europe.

After we left the town we drove further up into the hills, thinking we might find a way over them and a short-cut to "Mini Hollywood" where some "B" western movies have been filmed. We missed the short-cut, but found fields of flowers and a few untended olive trees.

                                        After we gave up on Mini Hollywood, we turned back to the coast and went down to Cabo de Gata, a nature preserve.

 

 

 

We didn't see much in the way of animals, but the hardy plants growing along the coast were a surprise in themselves.

 

 

 

Further along the coast we came to a lighthouse. The rocky coast made it clear why the lighthouse was needed.

      After the Cabo we started driving back towards Garrucha along the coast and stopped in San Jose for a drink overlooking the beach. Hey - a volleyball net, and it looks like it has been used!
                  On Tuesday we decided to explore Almería and the castle there called Al Cazaba.

 

 

There is a broad central street running through the town called Rambla de Belén, great for walking, with statues and fountains and plazas.

                Walking up the hill from the town we headed for Al Cazaba. We didn't pay quite enough attention to the map though, and we ended up on the wrong hill!

 

 

Here you can see the old wall of the fortress running from the hill we are on (where that statue is) over to the other hill which is where the actual Al Cazaba is found.

                                The Al Cazaba is an old fortress, and inside the walls is an incredible garden, with an incredible purple tree - we'd never seen anything like that!

 

 

 

The fort clearly has a huge Moorish influence as shown by the shapes of the walls and towers, but also by the extensive use of water in setting the atmosphere of the place.

          Wednesday was a relaxed day. We spent some time wandering around in Garrucha, looking for the daily traveling market. We wandered along the boardwalk and the harbour area. Found another volleyball net, but it didn't look used.

We had a great lunch at a little restaurant along the beach called "La Pesquera". The waiter's English wasn't that good - but better than our Spanish - and our Spanish phrase book didn't have the "penknife" clams that we enjoyed. This was where we had the best Paella on our trip.

                    It's about 2 1/2 hours drive from Garrucha to Grenada, along some excellent highway with virtually no traffic. Along the way we could see that we were getting into the mountains - see the snow-capped peaks?

Once we arrived in Grenada we headed straight for Al Hambra, high atop a hill overlooking the city. We seem to have missed a lot of the tourist traffic (early June) and we even managed to get parking!

Find out more about Al Hambra.

The tour through the grounds starts with a garden and the Palacio of King Carlos 5, built like an old Roman Colliseum. After that taste of the past we were ready for the main event - the Royal Palace.

                                                                            The Royal Palace of Al Hambra is made up of 3 parts: the Mexuar, the Serallo and the Harem surrounding the Lion's Court. The water which is such an essential element of the buildings came via an aqueduct from a nearby river, diverted far upstream and channeled to flow to the palace.

 

 

 

The incredible thing about the place is the carvings on the walls and ceilings, so intricate and detailed and extensive. We need to get someone to translate some of the Arabic script carved into the walls.

 

 

 

Water is used everywhere as an architectural element - pools, streams, fountains. Pictures here show the Patio of the Myrtles with the myrtle bushes lining the pool, and the Lion's Court with its fountain.

 

 

 

We were lucky that the place was not completely over-run with visitors. Usually, one only had to wait a minute or two for a crowd to pass in order to get a good picture.

 

 

 

There is a fascinating garden shown here which is based on Moorish design on one side and Renaissance on the other.

 

 

 

As we leave the main part of the Palace there are buildings used by other people who were high up in Grenada's society. One of these is called the Ladies' Tower and has a beautiful pool in front of it.

                                  After leaving the Palace and the Ladies' Tower there is a large garden area that is part of the Palace grounds.
                                    From there the walk continues on to another garden called 'Generalife' (general leefay) and a house that  belonged to some general, I think.

 

The family that recently owned that house was no longer able to afford the upkeep and they donated it to the people looking after Al Hambra on the condition that they continue the upkeep of the house and gardens.


                             
On Friday we again took it easy, starting with lunch along the boardwalk in Garrucha.

 

Afterwards, we walked down to the Fish market. Since Garrucha is a fishing port, the ships all return to harbour late in the afternoon with their catch already cleaned and on ice in the hold of the ship. They sort the fish by type and size and prepare flats of fish, about 2 feet by 1 1/2 feet in size.

 

The auctioneer runs the show. Flats of fish are brought in from the ships, weighed, tagged and arranged for auction. There were normally 10 or so buyers wandering around the flats, some talking on cell phones, trying to get a good price for their market or restaurant.

 

We saw shrimp (various sizes), swordfish, mackerel, squid and bunch of things that have interesting Spanish names!

                                      Saturday morning arrived too soon and we had to check out of the Pueblo Laguna and catch the flight back to Barcelona.

 

 

Once we got there we took a taxi to our hotel right in the heart of the old part of town (Bario Gottica). From there it was an easy walk to everything we wanted to see.

 

 

We started with the Cathedral - unfortunately the outside was under construction, perpetually under construction they say.

 

 

We carried on, wandering through old streets and plazas, making our way over to Las Ramblas, a long connection of boulevard walking streets and shopping areas ... time for a few souvenirs.

   
   
For the evening we had arranged tickets for dinner and an "authentic" Flamenco demonstration. Actually, it was very good, quite stirring in some of the dances. Of course Glen wanted to see more of the guitar playing.

 

After dinner and the show we continued wandering through the town, heading down to the port area where we heard some music that was put on as part of the Festival del Mar.

And then the next day it was all over. We checked out and headed to the airport again. It was a long trip home - 22 hours door to door - but at least it was in Business Class! We flew Barcelona to Munich to Montreal to Toronto. It was all going pretty smoothly except for the transfer in Montreal where some airport security workers were ... not working ... and as a result the line-up to get through security was about 90 minutes long and we missed our flight. No problem, we got home eventually, and all our luggage made it too, and none of our precious souvenirs was damaged in transit. Success!!!


Copyright © Glen C. Bodie, 1999-2006
All rights reserved.